HARRY'S CLOCK SHOP
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  • 400 DAY
  • Clock Build
    • Clock Build Pg.1
    • Clock Build Pg.2
    • Clock Build Pg.3
    • Clock Build Pg.4
  • Repair Procedures
    • Telechron Setting Gear Pg. 1
    • Telechron Setting Gear Pg. 2
    • Barrel Hook Repacement
    • Tooth replacement and lantern pinion repair
    • Main Wheel Reversal
    • Drilling Hole in Glass Dome
    • Making a Clock Mainspring Barrel
  • Steam Engines
  • Contact
  • Vienna movement
  • Home
  • SERVICES
  • 400 DAY
  • Clock Build
    • Clock Build Pg.1
    • Clock Build Pg.2
    • Clock Build Pg.3
    • Clock Build Pg.4
  • Repair Procedures
    • Telechron Setting Gear Pg. 1
    • Telechron Setting Gear Pg. 2
    • Barrel Hook Repacement
    • Tooth replacement and lantern pinion repair
    • Main Wheel Reversal
    • Drilling Hole in Glass Dome
    • Making a Clock Mainspring Barrel
  • Steam Engines
  • Contact
  • Vienna movement
Click on any image for a full size photo.


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Completed depthing tool.

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Turning the front hub of the ratchet wheel.

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After the front hub was turned I moved the chuck holding the ratchet wheel to the rotary table on the mill to cut the teeth with a 60 degree single point cutter I ground.

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Another view of cutting teeth in the ratchet wheel.

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After the teeth were cut I moved the chuck back to the lathe to turn the rear hub, drill the hole for arbor and part off.

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Completed ratchet wheel.


At this point I had a setback. I had knurled the winding arbor so I could tightly press on the ratchet wheel  and when I went to press it on it got stuck (or so I thought) and I ruined both the ratchet wheel and winding arbor. I have been getting advice on the Clockmakers Newsletter forum and it was suggested that I needed to use straight knurls instead of a cross hatch knurl and that makes perfect sense. I made 2 new parts and  before I tried to press the ratchet wheel on I took some scrap drill rod and knurled it and pressed on the old ratchet wheel as a test and it worked exactly like I had hoped. Then I went to drive the new ratchet wheel onto the winding arbor and it stopped again before I could get it to where it belonged. This time I saw what was wrong and you can click here to see what happened.

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I decided to try and cross out my wheels using the rotary table and an end mill as Jerry Kieffer demonstrated in my training. I marked out the spokes before I started then let the rotary table divide them up. 
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Making the rivet for the click.

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I think I was using a .014" slitting saw for the slot for the click spring.




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All the parts for the main wheel are now ready for assembly.
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When it was time to make the last cuts I simply used a square and aligned my marks against the back of the mill then once again used the rotary table to move to the next spoke. 
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Click and rivet

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Here I am making the tension washer for holding the main wheel on the ratchet wheel hub. It is .020" thick and 1" in diameter.




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Front of main wheel assembly complete.
It is maybe a little stiff when turning with a key but I think it will loosen up and I would much rather have it a little stiff than loose. I am very happy with how this turned out.
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This is after cleaning off the dye and before any filing. I am trying to show how nice the finish is using the end mill. 


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Trying to show cutting the slot in the back of the click for the click spring. 
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OK.. don't laugh. I used my trailer hitch ball to shape the tension washer. You can see the washer on the right of the ball. I am using the vice to push it into a leather belt that I have doubled over. This worked very well.
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Rear of main wheel assembly. 


Note: I realized that it was not really time to assemble the main wheel assembly yet due to the fact that I would need the main wheel unmounted to use in the depthing tool later. I had earlier made a different main wheel and cut spokes in it before I realized that the book called for 5 spokes in this wheel and I had only crossed out 4.  The teeth and the diameter of the 2 wheels were identical and I was anxious to see it completed so I decided to assemble all the parts and use the other wheel to depth the train.  

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